Review/Wandering: Rainbow Caribbean Cuisine

After returning twice in two weeks, I'm coming to terms with the fact that the chicken roti at Rainbow is both addictive and causes something like a Eureka moment. (Oh, you can't help but think upon first bite. That's why people love this place.)

Don Henley's "The End of the Innocence" is playing over the stereo; a years-younger Barack Obama looks out over the oxtail and snapper trays from a poster with an optimistic smile - it's an interesting mix of old and new, but it's a good one. I brush my feet against the floor, sizing up the long bar of curries, rum cakes, and coconut desserts and wonder if Rainbow was the first tenant of this sunny spot in downtown Kitchener, scribbling absently about how kids-these-days might just grow up okay despite listening to Lady Gaga (next up on the stereo) sing about disco sticks if I (who is a self-professed lyrics girl) am only figuring out now how poignant some of my parents' favorite songs really were. Sometimes it takes time to listen differently; time and years. It took me 'til last week to discover that Tom Cochrane's "Big League" (a song - or, well, chorus - sung many a time as my family piled into our van to send my brother or sister off to an early-morning hockey game) is firmly rooted in tragedy.

I digress. Food and music, particularly their combination, can take you anywhere.

The roti I've ordered is massive; sweet-savoury and staining my fingers even as I carve it. It's too large to lift with anything resembling elegance, but this is a Very Good Thing - the roti wrap itself is pleasantly chewy without being dense, and it's packed with tender, slow-cooked chicken, potatoes, and onions. I can already tell I'll be taking the last third home for leftovers. Again! And I walked in starving. ...Now to guard the leftovers from M.

One day I'll make it to the goat curry; to the snapper dinner; to the Jamaican patties with their bright, flaky, egg-y pastry. I'm not usually the type to gravitate to a favorite and get stuck there, but there's a first time for everything.

When I wrote this first, it was during the heart of Oktoberfest, and I think I'd ventured Downtown in search of a schnitzel, but I'm definitely glad my feet turned me this way.

In other fantastic news, I noticed as I left Rainbow that Niko Niko is once again open for business! (It had been closed for some time due to smoke damage from the fire down the block.)

Event: Taste Local! Taste Fresh!

There are, I think, few better ways to welcome fall in than with a riot of fall colours, and fantastic, in-season, local food shared with an interesting mix of friends - and friends you've yet to meet.

And so, Foodlink's "Taste Local! Taste Fresh!" event was perfect for these colder days we've been finding ourselves in.

Taste Local! Taste Fresh! or #TLTF2011, as it's termed around the Twittersphere, ran for most of the afternoon on Sunday, September 18 out at the Riverside Meadows Park in St. Jacobs. I had the good fortune to be working as a volunteer behind the scenes, handing out custom pottery plates (by clay diva Vicky Davis) to attendees and snapping photos (and snagging tastes) whenever I was on break.

The vegan salad rolls from Fertile Ground and Seven Shores were delicious and gorgeous - as were the local flowers that Fertile Ground brought as a backdrop. I kept wanting to snag one for my hair, but was fairly certain this wouldn't go over well!

These two were one of twenty teams: 20 local farms and 20 culinary institutions (restaurants, catering companies, cafes, caterers...) were matched up for this event - one would provide feature ingredients and the other would make some culinary magic with them for the sampling delight of the 400+ attendees, volunteers, and participants.

It's wonderful to see this kind of support for local restaurants and farmers; given, in sunny, summery Ontario, "eating local" has gained some traction, but it's events like this that truly build a sense of community - if you know the farmer that grows the apples on your table (thanks to the folks at Martin's for the Honeycrisp, that said!) it can change the way you look at your food and connect with your community, often opening doors to new friendships and new experiences along the way.

Speaking of new experiences, one of my first samples was a pulled rabbit crostini with a marigold & peashoot slaw from Puddicombe House and Top Market Rabbitry. (YUM.)

I'd never tried rabbit before, and thought that Chef Lance's preparation was delicious. I don't think it will be a meat choice I will seek out regularly (particularly as, in my history at least, when it appears on a menu, it's to the tune of ~$40 for an entree) but it meshed beautifully with the piquant, fresh, and wonderfully colourful slaw and ultimately was a great "taste."

Despite a windy start, the day was gorgeous, and it was fun to people-watch as folks floated by on their own personal Cloud Nines with smoked apple gelato or pumpkin blinis in hand. I think everyone who I asked "so, any favorites yet?" had a different answer.

When walking around before the event started, I had to snap a shot of the homemade pepper jelly from the amazing team at Kitchener-Waterloo's Culinary Studio! These jars almost look like minature stained-glass windows, but their contents (a swirl of which was served, perched atop a freshly made corn donut with buttercream icing) was far more delicious.

Another perk of events like these can be the bits of education one picks up along the way. In this photo, you can see the results of when Baer's Vibrant Farms and Wildcraft teamed up to make a scrumptious sous-vide organic beef spiral served in a sesame cone with quinoa slaw.

As I snapped photos, I learned from the Wildcraft crew how the sous-vide cooking method works - it may not be the most visually attractive process, but it rendered delicious results!

All in all, it was an amazing event, and I already can't wait for next year's Taste Local! Taste Fresh! With luck, I'll be one of those aproned blurs working behind the scenes as a volunteer to help make it awesome, once again.

Review: Ennio's Pasta House (on King)

The Italian Soda cocktail at Ennio's Pasta House is a little like summer filtered into a glass. Not late summer, like what has found us now: cooler nights, turning leaves, and inescapable heat during the day, but the peak of summertime with its bright hue and Limoncello fizz - and the kick that surprises you when you rise to your feet; that, too.

Yum.

Thinking about seasons turns me maudlin and metaphorical (there's lengthy proof of that in my other blog) but then, the patio at Ennio's is a good place to reflect. It's a little noisy, what with facing King Street between University and Weber, but the high walls and central fireplace make it a comfortable space. I'd love to return and curl up on the couches that surround the fireplace, but was craving pasta, which is tricky to manage gracefully in slouchy chairs!

Instead, we headed for one of the patio tables; M snagged a glass of the Wolf Blass Cabernet Sauvignon and threatened playfully that he'd steal my Soda (but didn't carry through, which was wise; it'd be a long walk home!)

My pasta came with a starter house salad, which I shared with M; as house salads go, its blend of iceberg and redleaf lettuces, cucumber, and a ribbon of carrot didn't seem very exciting (though the marinated rings of red onion were a piquant, nostalgic touch) but everything was very fresh and the Italian dressing served with it tasted homemade. Also, for a starter salad, it was large - and, once the two wholegrain buns and olive oil/basil pesto dipping tray arrived for us to nibble on, I knew I'd be bringing leftovers home.

In a list of things Taryn Likes Best, leftovers hit the top thirty, safe.

M ordered the Michelangelo pizza, and happily noted that Ennio's offers a whole wheat crust. I, on the other hand, smiled at his healthy choice and ordered a new addition to the menu: scallops, roasted red peppers, and asparagus in a saffron cream sauce with a "hint of citrus" over linguine was calling my name. It's a lot of flavours to fit together; it was the first pasta dish I've seen served with a lemon wedge in a very long time as well, but the lemon worked, tying flavours together. Very decadent.

The pizza (roasted chicken, mushrooms, and fresh basil, with a tomato base; there were either roasted red peppers or sundried tomatoes as well, but my memory is failing me and a couple of Google searches have not yielded the menu) was met with a grin. The pizza is generous - M usually finishes single-serving pizzas and then is hungry two hours later, but he left a couple of pieces for a late-night snack.

Our friendly server asked about coffee or dessert, but we declined, taking our leftovers homewards. Ennio's is one of those places that everyone knows about, and somehow feels like it; stories and lives, like some kinds of pasta, are made to be tangled up together (and for an evening, it was fun to be part of the mix.)

Gastronavigation: Dana Shortt Gourmet

It's funny - the longer I live in KW, the more I am grateful for services like Twitter.

After all, it was a wayward tweet that caused my feet to wander to Dana Shortt Gourmet, a catering/fine foods store just off of Erb in Waterloo. It hinted at a brand new "olive oil and balsamic vinegar tasting bar" on the premises, and while I've enjoyed tasting bars at various Niagara wineries, this was something new.

Something new, and utterly fascinating. I made it past the rows of cupcakes and sample trays of shortbread cookies (though, I did try the brown sugar & chocolate shortbread cookies and left with a bag to share with friends) to turn the corner and find myself in the company of over thirty fusti of extra virgin olive oil and balsamic vinegar, their contents clearly and cheerfully labeled.

I puttered about for a couple of moments, reading the descriptions posted on the front of each fusti and looking curiously towards the food pairings: pint-sized bocconcini salads and sample shot glasses of yogurt and granola, but wasn't sure where to begin (short of taking a couple of pictures.)

When I asked about taking photos, it opened up an entirely new opportunity - visiting the tasting bar became a tour as food expert Jennifer encouraged me to try different oils and vinegars, showing me how to swirl the sample glass of oil on my palm to warm it up before giving it a try. Some of the pairings were more unusual than others - she matched the yogurt with a blood orange olive oil - but it was surprisingly delicious.

From touring through the five "straight-up" olive oils (my favorite, an almost-fiery Hojiblanca, resides beside my stove) to sprinkling white truffle oil over some fresh-popped popcorn and sharing it with me, she was patient and knowledgeable, sharing facts and anecdotes with an easy smile.

One of my favorite stories involved their supplier, Veronica Foods. It turned out that one of Veronica's grand-daughters was not a fan of olive oil, so they worked to blend a mix of olive oil and herbs to create...

...and, yes, it does taste like butter.

I have an abiding love for all things citrus, and zoomed in on the lemon olive oil, which has a story all its own. This variant, as well as the lime and blood orange olive oils, were created through a process called "whole fruit infuse argumato" (which I did misspell; thank you to the folks @ Dana Shortt for catching it!) The concept behind it is that the citrus fruit which goes into the oil were grown in the same area as the olives, and the fruit and olives were pressed simultaneously, giving the oils a rich, bright flavour. I took a sample vial of this oil home, and have used it to great effect on spinach salads (matched with a lemon or cranberry-pear balsamic) and sole fillets since.

This process sets them apart from other variants, like garlic or chipotle, where the extra flavours are infused at a later point in the process.

One of the flavour options that I liked immediately was the wild mushroom & sage olive oil; rich, smooth, and almost smoky. On the other side of the bar was a dark chocolate balsamic, which, Jennifer assured me, could translate well to sweet or savoury dishes (ice cream or steak were the options suggested!)

One of the features that I liked best about Dana Shortt's tasting bar was how user-friendly its setup is. From the tasting-notes on each fusti to the "cocktails" beside each spout with a mixture of an olive oil and a vinegar that make a classic (garlic & butter) or quirky (blackberry-ginger & Persian lime) combination, it was a lot of fun to tour around. I tried a lot, talked a lot, and left with a lot left to try.

Like this 18-year-old balsamic vinegar (see: the massive fusti on the bottom shelf.) One day!

That said, if your feet are in a wandering kind of mood and you find yourself in Uptown, might I recommend indulging your inner chemist and food enthusiast? The tasting bar is complimentary, and the experience itself is a lot of fun.

On a completely different note, here's the best kind of PSA: butter tart competitions. Attendance is free, and the competitors are dynamite.

I suspect that the little heart shapes that have taken up residence in my eyes are bound to last for a while now.

Happy wandering! (And who knows? Maybe I'll see you there!)

Corrections (July 23/11): when blissfully overwhelmed, it can be hard to get all of the details right. Thanks to the folks at Dana Shortt for catching my scribing slip-ups: Veronica's grandchildren (not daughter) are the ones who inspired the butter olive oil; the citrus olive oils are whole-fruit infused; and the tasting bar has over twenty varieties and then some! The count is at 37 varieties of extra virgin olive oil, balsamic vinegars, and other specialty gourmet oils - and (best of all) more varieties are due next week!

Crosspost: "A Little Birdie Told Me"

While guest judging at the first Iron Chef Uptown of the year, I had the fantastic luck to meet up with one of Foodlink's representatives. Over delicious scallops and apple martinis, she asked if I might guest-blog for Foodlink's Local Dish blog sometime.

Rendered completely giddy and floored by the offer (and a little intimidated), I puzzled over what to write - until the idea of talking about the connections between social media and gastronomic events like Iron Chef Uptown came to mind. Upon moving to KW, it blew me away how many folks in the food and service industry used tools like Twitter to keep up with each other and the various events in the region. Not only that, how welcoming they were to newcomers like myself.

That said, the pun about "a little birdie" in the blog post's title is both terrible and transparent, but then, I've always had a weakness for awful puns. (As for why this was posted on my own blog so belatedly? Summer is terribly distracting. ^^;;)

Article @ Foodlink's Local Dish.

I hope you read on and enjoy; thoughts are always welcome!

Gastronavigation: Spring!

Spring is my favorite season.

It could be that I'm a spring baby, or the sunshine, or the flowers (it's probably all of the above) - these days, I think a big part of it is that life just seems to pick up again as the days grow longer.

Some quick shots:

Freshly foraged fiddleheads! The wonderful bourbonbaker hunted these down and passed some

to me. (Thank you!) I've never tried them (I don't think they're very common in Alberta) and am very excited to add them to tonight's dinner!

Fiddleheads, if I recall correctly, are the young shoots of the ostrich fern, and seem to be a culinary herald of spring in this area, along with ramps and asparagus. I know that fiddleheads can be blanched and tossed in with salads or pastas, but I think I'm going to keep it simple and saute them with some butter and maybe a pinch of black pepper and salt. (Other recommendations?)

This beauty is from Nick & Nat's Uptown 21 - not only did I win their Poutine Friday contest but lucked into finding my favorite flatbread in recent memory. It featured roasted pecans, curly endive, herbed goat(?) cheese, and a sweet-savoury squash puree that I would happily eat by the spoonful. I would inevitably regret eating said puree by the spoonful, but I would be blissful until that regret hit! The mix of flavours, the perfectly chewy crust... my leftovers were equally delicious cold, as well. Definitely one of my favorite dishes in KW. Woefully, I discovered this on the second-last week of N&N's lunch service - maybe it'll be back in the fall!

I'm trying to brave my fear of baking this year. I enjoy baking (both the eating and the preparing parts), but am sometimes too spontaneous for an art that requires precision and attention to the recipe. ^^;; ...I may also have set off fire alarms while baking things as elementary as cakes-from-a-box and puffed wheat squares in the past.

So, these pecan-apricot-orange-spice muffins, adapted from Food & Drink's Spring 2011 edition, were a good step forward. Handily, the original recipe is available online: Orange-Pistachio-Glazed Spiced Muffins.

Happy spring! I hope you're enjoying the sunshine.

Review: Salsateria (Guelph)

My first patio dinner of the year is always a great moment - even if particularly stubborn cloud cover drove my friends and I to a nifty, curvy booth inside Salsateria after we'd devoured our Super Star nachos!

We were sufficiently starved after hiking around waterfalls and through fields of trout lilies on the Bruce Trail all afternoon, and found no respite (read: restaurants with patios) when driving through downtown Hamilton, which we'd eyed as our original dinner destination.*

Fortunately, one of our number knew that Guelph had no shortage of patios, so we trekked onwards and paused outside Salsateria, caught by the bright colours and lively music playing from inside (and the empty tables on the tiny patio that were currently in the sun.) Our server was quick with the menus and our sodas - we eyed the beer list, which looked both solid and very affordable, but the closest we came to beer was using our glasses of ginger ale and Coke to describe different beer varieties for a curious friend. Once our Rojo Chicken Super Star Nachos appeared, descriptions tapered off. The nachos, covered in tomatoes, cheese, green onions, and tender chicken cooked in a creamy-pimento salsa (faintly orange; very delicious) were a great starter, and though we eyed the trio of dips (Los Trio?) as a second appetizer, once our pizzas and burritos appeared, we were happy we'd saved space.

M and D ordered pizzas, choosing the "One Love" pizza sauce from a selection of four (one Italian-inspired, another Spanish; this one promised spice and mangoes, and I know that M has a weakness for both of those!) while choosing jerk chicken and beef as their proteins respectively (nice to see tofu on the list) and asking for "the works" - including broccoli florets! - for toppings. The broccoli added a jolt of colour and crispness to the pizzas, served on a thin crust that almost seemed like a hardier, chewier phyllo.

K and I went for the burritos (beef and rojo chicken, respectively; again, with "the works" - no broccoli, but green peppers, green onions, rice, beans, and caramelized onions make a stuffed and tasty burrito!) They were served with a small helping of corn tortilla chips and a mildly spicy and very flavourful salsa. Word on the Internet is that said salsa is for sale; though I didn't see any jars of it at the bar or near the door, I'd be interested in picking some up on a return trip.

Salsateria feels like a place with a history; the drink menu is still labeled with "Van Gogh's Ear" and some of the art on the raised ceiling panels feels like it may have been left over from this restaurant's last incarnation - but it fits the primary-coloured, warm, and mildly chaotic vibe. M eyed the stage and sound equipment at the far end of the restaurant with interest, wondering aloud how Salsateria would change in the wee hours, with live music and flickering lights. It's open 'til 2 AM on the weekend nights, and seems to be a popular late-night/post-club venue.

I suspect we'll be back to find out.

That said, happy patio season!

* = I mean no offense to Hamilton's restaurants, but we had our hearts set on a patio, and the direct route through combined with our general lack of knowledge of the area set us up for disappointment. That said - recommendations? ^____^